Is Kashmir safe to visit? A journey through beauty, conflict, and peace
The journey into Kashmir
In stark contrast to the earthy tones and jagged mountain rock faces of Ladakh, where we had spent the majority of our time on the most recent group tour departure of India: High Road to Kashmir, a natural border crossing seemed to materialise as we were suddenly surrounded by green upon entering Kashmir. Towering pine trees lined the steep slopes, shrouded in white cloud, as if the Ladakhi tradition of draping white scarves around visitors had followed us here.
Lush greens continued to cascade down the mountainsides, blending into a valley of rice and corn fields. Dark olive military trucks thundered past. Emerald domes crowned the occasional mosque. Camouflage-clad soldiers dotted the roadside every quarter mile or so, machine guns slung at the ready. A sign read: “Here you are, at paradise on earth.”
A Note on the Kashmir Conflict
When people speak of beauty so profound it inspires conflict, the same must apply to Kashmir — the region has been at the heart of a territorial dispute between India and Pakistan since 1947, when British India was divided. Both countries claim Kashmir in full, but each controls only part of it.
Despite the complexity of the situation and ongoing political tension, which has led to three wars, several military standoffs, and ongoing unrest, including the 2025 Pahalgam attack on Indian tourists, the Kashmir I was fortunate to experience was full of warmth, resilience, and natural beauty. It’s this contrast that defines the region: both a paradise and a place shaped by history far beyond its own making. But to be here is to feel the very antithesis of war.
In the solitude of Dal Lake — if you don’t count the endless lotus flower and seed offerings from Mr Wonderful in his bright pink, bouquet-burdened shikara cutting flamboyantly through the mossy serenity of the lake’s surface — any concern of military tension soon fades.
The most imposing sight becomes the mountains framing the lake, or the distant fort just visible on the horizon above the lily pads and reeds. Instead of traffic and honking, there is birdsong. The only conflict we’re aware of is the odd territorial spat between moorhens.
(Find out more about our approach to running trips to controversial destinations, including how we assess the safety of our trips.)
A pocket of paradise: where to stay on Dal Lake?
Staying aboard the opulent houseboats of Dal Lake, with its ornately carved wooden awnings and thick, plush rugs, which feels like the epitome of luxury under bare feet, while a cacophony of various calls to prayer drift through the open window with the light breeze, has to be the best way to experience Kashmir. Once settled, it’s hard to believe that any feelings of trepidation arose around this trip, even in light of the attack in Pahalgam just a few months prior.
It makes me reflect on the duality of life, and how such tranquillity can be lost as quickly as it is gained.
How do we address safety and FCDO Advice?
This trip currently goes against FCDO travel advice due to its finale in Srinagar, and so specialist insurance is required, which, of course, is not exactly uncharted territory for Wild Frontiers. High Road to Kashmir also happens to be one of the first two trips we ever ran in India, following our founder Jonny’s early travels in the region, so this is also territory we have over 25 years of experience travelling through.
Having spent the past seven years working alongside the experts and decision-makers who assess the safety of every one of our trips, I have immense faith that if a tour is running, it’s for good reason. When staff join group tours, we experience them exactly as clients do — including how our teams respond in the aftermath of serious incidents.
After the May attack, those booked on the tour were offered the chance to switch tour dates. No one did. That didn’t surprise us — our travellers are a resilient lot. Just eight weeks before departure, we offered an alternative itinerary excluding Kashmir in case of any developments. Still, no one dropped out.
But I soon learned that Kashmir was the most highly anticipated part of the trip for all of us. Since few other travel companies were offering Kashmir at the time, we could only hope things would proceed as originally planned.
(It's important to note that some people may question whether it is ethical to travel to what might be considered controversial destinations. Ultimately, it's a decision only the individual can make, but we've explored this topic in our blog, Is it ethical to travel to controversial destinations?)
Navigating delays and arriving in Srinagar
The situation was closely monitored throughout the tour by our tour leader, our agents on the ground and back at Head Office, up until the very last moment. To receive that final confirmation that Kashmir was indeed going ahead as planned left us all buzzing, but due to heightened security, we did experience a few delays on our journey.
On arrival into Kashmir, soldiers diverted us from the planned scenic route through Sonamarg and instead through a less-than-picturesque tunnel. Still, we arrived in Srinagar just a few hours behind schedule.
Despite the long journey, it felt like an enormous blessing to finally be sitting on the deck of our houseboats, watching the setting sun with a Kingfisher (both the beer and the bird), as any worries about Kashmir or the wider world melted into the beauty surrounding us almost instantaneously.
Travel to a controversial destination - what's the point?
It was not lost on me how privileged I am to be able to put my worries aside so quickly and easily, but surely, to do anything other than surrender to the moment, with full presence and gratitude, would be a waste.
A waste not to bask in the burnt-orange sun as it blinds us with brilliance before it descends behind the distant fort, turning the lake to liquid gold, which shimmers with passing shikaras. A waste not to trace the details in the graceful wingspan of red kites overhead, or admire the stillness of an Indian pond heron posing on a branch.
A waste not to stand in a dark monsoon night, steaming cup of Kashmiri tea in hand, feeling the spray of ricocheting raindrops on warm skin while lightning illuminates the sky purple.
Is Kashmir safe to visit? With the right people helping you, yes, I do believe so. Of course, there are risks to be found everywhere — even in paradise. But the rewards?
Well, isn’t that the point of it all?
