I went to Ethiopia to see the legendary rock churches - and they were indeed stunning. In the event though, the trek turned out to be the absolute highlight for me - sitting up on a high escarpment watching the eagles soar and the sun go down, legs aching, filthy dirty, exhausted but very happy, was one of those moments you know you'll never forget. And the 3,926m point on the 3rd day - terrifying getting up the final vertical bit (one small Ethiopian man pushing, another one pulling) but worth it - a magnificent sight, looking down on a seemingly infinite mountainous landscape, with the Lammergeier eagles riding the thermals above us.