I always wanted to visit Pakistan, but the Hunza Valley and the Karakorum Highway were not enough to tempt me. However Jonny's book For a Pagan Song which I read 2 years ago in Kashmir awakened me to the Kalash Festivals and that combination together with Jonny accompanying us sealed the deal. And what an adventure it turned out to be - Lowrai tunnel blasting, lunch with Mastook (?) in his lovely garden, staying in the Kalash valley enjoying the colourful Festival, great walks, Shandur lake, crazy roads but brilliant drivers with amazing mountain scenery, ending in Eagle's Nest In Hunza with 360 degrees of snow capped 7,000 metre mountains around us. Perhaps most surprising of all was the friendliness of ordinary people we met on our way - and the fact that we saw no more than a handful of other foreign travellers! Such a treat!