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Blogging from the Wild

Exploring the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor pt.2

Following on from his first blog, Charlie Walker leads his group across the Tajik-Afghan border into the famous Wakhan Corridor.

Exploring the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor pt.1

Charlie Walker leads his group through the wild borderlands of Tajikistan as they prepare for their crossing into Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor.

Shotgun Weddings & Stunning Scenery: From Ishkashim to Sarhad

The excitement we felt on our first sight of Afghanistan was palpable. Arriving at the small town of Kalaikhum in Tajikistan we gazed across the fast-flowing Panj River to the Afghanistan shore opposite and the rugged mountains that rose above; so near and still yet so far.

Discovering Qala e Panj in the Wakhan Valley

In Qala e Panj we stayed in the guesthouse owned by the Shah, one of the two or three influential people holding that title in the valley. Tucked away within his private garden we were told that apricots and apples are grown. There is very little fruit in the Afghan Wakhan even in summer and so we w…

Visiting Kret and Baba Tangi

Tour leader Max Wood recently led our Wakhan Pamir Adventure group tour in Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Below he talks about visiting the village of Kret, set against the backdrop of impressive Baba Tangi mountain. After Sarhad we retraced our steps west along the valley, this time switching to th…

Exploring Afghanistan's Sarhad e Broghil

Tour leader Max Wood has recently led our Wakhan Pamir Adventure group tour in Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Below he talks about exploring Sarhad e Broghil, a remote village in Afghanistan's Wakhan region. We have finally reached Sarhad y Broghil, the end of the road in the upper Wakhan. We are al…

Visiting Afghanistan: A Client's View

WF traveller Maureen Flynn visited Afghanistan in May on our Afghan Explorer group tour. Below Maureen talks about what it's really like to visit a country that's so often in the news for negative reasons. After reading many travelogues over the years including those of Newby, Murphy, Bealby and …

Leaving the Wakhan Valley

Today we leave Afghanistan after ten days in the Wakhan valley. It’s been a pleasure being there. Beautiful scenery, friendly Wakhi people, awful roads and no other tourists. Both the locals and the landscape are extremely photogenic; stunning views of the Pamirs and the Hindu Kush and many hundreds…

Reflecting on Afghanistan trip

Sitting here in a Delhi Hotel room. Afghanistan seems, having only left Kabul this morning, already a world away. We followed our visit to the beautiful and enigmatic Panshir Valley where Massoud's legend and spiritual legacy are strong, with what many of us have felt was the highlight of the trip …

Exploring Afghanistan

Well incredibly the trip is half way through. I don't know where the time has flown, but that does tend to be the way of trips like this when you are packing so much in. The group all arrived safely last Saturday and managed to negotiate the airport loos without incident (see last blog) before reac…

Afghanistan - Johnny P. Arrives in Kabul.

I quickly made a fool of myself within half an hour of touching down in Kabul. When I arrived in the baggage reclaim hall rather desperate for the loo I dived straight in to the lady's by mistake. Luckily there was no one in there. It didn't occur to me that the lack of urinals wasn't just a curious…

Richard Dunwoody's buzkashi debut

Once again a trip to Afghanistan has produced some memorable highlights for me. Visiting the CAI schools was a rare privilege, the history around Bozai Gumbaz reminded me of Great Game times and the Russian occupation of the area, swimming in two foot of water and one foot of mud in Lake Cheqmaqtin …

Alan in Afghanistan - Forging Ahead Through Hail, Rain & Snow!

When Afghanistan decides to show you her inhospitable side you certainly know about it; and if I didn’t feel like I was on an expedition before, I certainly do now.Our Saturday night dinner at Garumdee was wonderful, so hats off to guest chef Gail. However, we were rudely interrupted by rain at arou…

Alan in Afghanistan - Latest News from the Wakhan Trek

Reaching Lake Cheqmaqtin is a milestone for our group. This is our farthest point east and from tomorrow we will no longer be chasing our shadows as we begin our return journey to Sarhad; moving west across some of the highest passes in the Pamirs. Our journey here took six hours and added another 1…

Alan in the Wakhan - "mislaying" all the horses

The last couple of days have both entertained and excited. Leaving Zankuk we continued along the river with some gentle slopes here and there as our caravan of horses followed behind us. We passed through Langar, a place marked on the map but really just a large stretch of grass, before travelling a…

Wakhan Trek - Guest blog by Jan Mahoney, Andrea Carnegie-Smith & David & Cathy Bowler

After an acclimatisation walk and another CAI school visit, our trek began in earnest. An early rise at 5:30, our horses arrived at 6 and the process began which essentially involved lots of shouting, hand-waving, doors slamming and wild gesticulating; not to mention us standing around looking sligh…

Alan dances his way into Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan

“Roads? Where we’re going we don’t need roads.” (Doc Brown, 1985) Sarhad e Brogil is where the road ends and from here we will join a select few who have continued on foot deep into the Wakhan Corridor. The first day of the trek has dominated many of our thoughts for more than six months and now it…

Alan in Afghanistan - Crossing the Border into Green Pastures

Having a spare day in Ishkashim allowed us to get out and stretch our legs – which was more than welcome after the time on the road. A two hour hike up to Bibi Fatima at 3,300m gave us excellent views, but the real reward came in the form of the brilliant hot springs where we all jumped at the chanc…

Alan in Tajikistan - Afghanistan (and the start of the Wakhan trek) Only a Stone's Throw Away

Afghanistan is just a stone’s throw away, literally, and has been for the last two days. The Pamir Highway is certainly no M25, and despite spending a combined 20 hours on it yesterday and today, we are still not bored by the surroundings. We left early on Friday and climbed steadily out of Dushanbe…

Mette in the Wakhan - Afghanistan

Hello from Afghanistan. We are in Goz Khan on the confluence of Pamir and Wakhan River in the Wakhan Corridor. Miraculously the internet works - picking up the network from Tajikistan. Tomorrow we head for a warm dip at Sargaz hot springs before ending up in Sarhad-i-Wakhan. We hope to catch a game…

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