The Caucasus region is relatively unknown, nestled between the mighty Empires of Russia, Turkey and Persia, this hidden gem provides travellers and history buffs with an epic canvas for learning.  

In this piece I’m going to discuss some of my learnings from our group tour Across the Caucasus: Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. More specifically, I’ll be discussing the modern and the ancient in this region. These three countries are so packed with history; from gazing at 2nd century gold jewelry in the Georgian State Museum, to being wowed by the Flame Towers in Baku, and eating lunch next to the thundering Aras River in Armenia, the essence of what this region has been and is becoming is everywhere.  

The most obvious place to start this discussion is, of course, Baku. Rich in oil and therefore modernising rapidly, I expected Baku to be a hub of modernity and innovation. I did find this to be the case, however, I was also charmed by Baku’s quiet and well-preserved old town. Baku has developed quickly in the relatively short period since the collapse of the Soviet Union, yet there is very little trace of Soviet influence there. Our guide informed us that the government has made an effort to replace Soviet buildings with sandstone buildings in the same style as those found in the old town, as well as creating fun and incredibly playful modern architecture.  

Azerbaijan has been an Islamic country since the Arab Invasion, which began in the 7th Century. Before this, Azerbaijan was largely a Christian country under the branch of the Albanian Church (Caucasian Albania, not to be confused with modern day Albania). As a nation Azerbaijan has made a huge effort to preserve all aspects of their heritage, which means that, not only does Azerbaijan have many well cared for churches from the period before the Arab Invasion, but the various cultural and religious features of the country are visible to see throughout its long history. 

Moving onto Georgia; beautiful, vibrant, and diverse, this nation has been subjected to countless imperial invasions and yet still maintains a strong sense of what is it is to be Georgian. The modern capital of Tbilisi is now a melting pot of cultures. You can view the ancient bath houses brought here by Persian and Ottoman Empires, set just across the river from a stunning mosque, all beneath the gaze of the Mother of Georgia who stands tall and proud on the hills overlooking her nation. 

Our guide revealed that Tbilisi has been invaded 40 times throughout its 2000-year history for its strategic location. Empires planned to use the South Caucasian Mountains as a barrier for invasion by other empires that surround this region. Despite persistent imperial influence, Georgians have maintained a widespread dedication to Orthodox Christianity as a way of preserving a sense of what it means to be Georgian. Anyone that knows a little of Stalin will know that he attempted to remove anyone involved in cultural practices, such as music, theatre and arts. This attack on culture effected Georgia greatly; revealed to us by a fascinating and rather sobering visit to the Soviet exhibition in the Georgian State Museum. It was explained to us that Orthodox Christianity has been preserved and practiced to this day as an integral part of maintaining a sense of being Georgian throughout the tumultuous history. Being able to visit these beautiful churches and witness services, listen to the hymns being sung and smell the beeswax candles burning, gave us a sense of how valuable religion is here. I was moved by how unified Georgian's are by their religion and how it maintains widely practiced in the modern day.  

Finally, we come to discuss Armenia. The tiny but extremely beautiful nation that we see today is the product of imperial conquest and a countless number of times that the border has been redrawn. What is left of Armenia is breathtakingly beautiful, but now, however, not rich in farmland or fertile ground. The landscape is rugged and reminiscent of those found in Central Asia, complete with animals being herded by men on horseback. Just being in this ancient land can help us to connect with the history of the people who have lived here. 

The photo above is of Karahunj, also known as Armenian Stonehenge. Here we stood, exposed to glorious sunshine on a windy mountain pass. When you feel the power of the elements it’s not hard to understand why ancient people worshipped natural elements as deities. Just being here provided understanding as to how and why Paganism was widely practiced before the adoption of Christianity as the state religion in 301 AD. Although paganism is not widely practiced today, Armenian’s still worship the sun by saying ‘I wish you good sun’ when they say goodbye to a friend.  

Therefore, it only remains to say that this region has everything to make a fantastic trip; fascinating history, wonderful food, and beautiful scenery. There really is something for everyone!