Geoffrey Bawa’s journey to architecture was anything but conventional. Originally trained as a lawyer, he didn’t pursue architecture until his thirties. His mixed heritage and deep love of the island’s landscapes all converged in a style that came to be known as “tropical modernism.”

What is “tropical modernism", I hear you ask? To put it simply, it is the seamless blending of indoor and outdoor spaces. The use of local materials and natural ventilation. It has a strong emphasis on harmony with the environment.

During my time in Sri Lanka, I had the chance to visit several of Geoffrey Bawa’s most iconic properties, each one offering a completely different glimpse into his vision. From tranquil gardens to breezy beach villas, every space felt connected and deeply rooted in its surroundings. 

The Lunuganga, once Bawa's country home and lifelong creative playground, now operates as a boutique hotel, featuring antique furnishings, an eclectic art collection, and guided garden tours. Nestled by the Dedduwa Lake in Bentota, this former rubber plantation was where Bawa experimented freely, treating the landscape like a canvas. As I wandered around the sprawling gardens with our guide, who has worked there for over 25 years and knew Bawa personally, he knew every detail, and with each turn we took, revealed something new. A framed view of the water, a sculpture peeking through the foliage or huge trees so carefully planted all those years ago. The room I stayed in was the 'Main House Studio', which once served as Bawa’s own bedroom. Its a simple room with large windows that open out to views of the gardens and lake beyond. The room is scattered with original pieces and curated objects collected by Bawa over the years. It was easy to imagine how Bawa might have lived in and moved through the space himself.

The estate isn’t flashy or grand in a traditional sense, but it radiates thoughtfulness. Bawa spent over 40 years shaping it, constantly editing and refining. The architecture is subtle, with low-slung pavilions and open courtyards, all merged together with tropical greenery. It’s a space designed not to impress, but to evoke feeling. You don’t just visit Lunuganga, you experience it.

The Last House, tucked away on the south coast near Tangalle,  is exactly what its name suggests, Geoffrey Bawa’s final residential commission before his passing in 2003. This serene beachfront villa encapsulates the essence of his work with all his famous hallmark touches - the openness & simplicity, all blending with the environment. The house almost feels lived in, rather than designed. The room I stayed in was the 'Cinnamon Hill', the interiors felt airy with large ceilings and a huge open balcony overlooking the sea. It was elegant, without being too showy. 

The Last House feels more relaxed than some of his larger projects. There's more simplicity in the layout, framed around the natural landscape amongst the palm trees, rather than the building dominating it. A beautiful property for a few quiet days on the beach. 

Finally, the Villa Bentota, where we had lunch. Originally a colonial home, the property was reworked by Bawa into a boutique hotel. Located on the southwest coast in the beach town of Bentota, a region where Bawa lived and worked for much of his life. The property blends the charm of old world architecture with Bawa’s signature tropical modernist touch. Think open courtyards and shaded verandahs, that seamless flow between inside and out. It offered a final reminder of Bawa’s ability to shape space in a way that feels purposeful and unforced.

Whatever brings you to Sri Lanka, whether it’s the coastline, the culture, or the food, make sure to explore the world of Geoffrey Bawa. His work goes beyond buildings. It’s about how architecture can engage with its surroundings. His influence still resonates to this day, not just in Sri Lanka, but in contemporary tropical design around the world.