Cuba - Chrome, Fishnets and Elvis

Posted by William Alexander 29th April 2014
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Surreal was the only word to describe our first day in Cuba ........

At least that was what came to mind as we pulled into Havana's military barracks and climbed out of our bright pink 1948 Buick convertible to be greeted by a female security official in army jacket, mini skirt and fishnet tights. Elvis Presley's tones on the car player were replaced by the amplified voice of an army General, as he gave his farewell address to 100 young soldiers on their passing out parade. Somewhat gingerly we climbed the adjacent earth bank to inspect the array of military hardware (some still pointing towards the USA) that had been amassed during the Cuban missile crisis of 1962. Missiles, rockets and anti-aircraft guns were all on display, many still marked with CCCP and a hammer & sickle symbol.

We returned to the heart of the city in our trio of classic cars via the road tunnel that runs beneath the narrow neck of the harbour and understood why Havana was such an easily defended sea-port over the centuries. Emerging into historic Plaza de Armas, the location of our ex-colonial hotel, we stumbled upon another surreal moment as a troupe of flamboyantly costumed stilt walkers performed alongside local belly dancers. Just part of Havana's vibrant street life that also includes antiquarian book stalls and musical trios, who conjure a vibrant beat from a guitar, a pair of maracas and a horse's jawbone.

Havana simply overflows with 18th century baroque buildings, which quite rightly have earned it UNESCO World Heritage status. The popular walking tours around Old Havana are a veritable architectural time warp. Restoration works are achieving some impressive results and continue apace, although there remains much to do to restore the full glory of this gem of a city. Of course a visit to Havana wouldn't be complete without a mojito or daiquiri or three, preferably in Hotel Ambos Mundos favoured by the celebrated American writer, Ernest Hemingway.

We wondered if Richard, our guide, had actually lost it as we climbed the stairs of a seemingly derelict building seeking dinner and finding ourselves having to negotiate lines of washing hung out to dry in rooms carpeted with dust and fallen masonry. But on the third floor Wild Frontiers came good as we emerged into a thriving restaurant that served a supper to remember ....... and by now no one in our group even batted an eyelid at the painting on the wall depicting a naked lady riding a hippopotamus swimming in water overflowing from a giant conch shell!

William travelled on our Cuba Horse Trek group tour.

William Alexander

William Alexander

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