There is no mistaking that visiting Afghanistan has some risk attached but if you have the desire and the right support, ie a competent tour leader and a reputable company as I did, you would see a country of immense beauty, magnificent mountains, incredibly blue lakes, historical sites and friendly, welcoming people. As a woman travelling in Afghanistan I wore loose clothing and a headscarf but noted that, although there were many women in burqas, there were also just as many who wore modest European style clothes and headscarves, and I found Afghan women curious of me and always friendly.