Seduced by the romantic idea of the Silk Road and memories of 1970s Iran, I have always been an independent traveller and yes, thought of myself as a traveller not a tourist, and this was my first organised tour. The route, and its demands in miles and borders, meant I opted for a tour rather than trying to go alone. The combination of a small group and an exceptional tour leader meant it was a great experience of being efficiently helped along rather than organised.