Carol Armstrong

We were surprised to transfer to two buffalo carts and a drummer, on which we trundled up the hill to an enormous fort, the home of Mahraj Diwan Nerinda, who met us on the steps with marigold garlands. We took chai with him and then passed through an ancient arch to our high campsite set under tamarind trees with a picturesque chatri and wide river just below, where we sat, had a cold beer and watched the sun set – perfect!