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Walking in Romania: Along the Enchanted Way


When William Blacker first crossed into the snowy landscapes of northern Romania, he entered a world that many people would hardly have recognised. In just a few short miles he had been transported back centuries to a medieval Europe of flickering candlelight and Romany gypsies, where the remote Transylvanian landscapes still haunted childhood dreams.

In his book, ‘Along the Enchanted Way’, Blacker describes a world that was disappearing, with gypsy lovers and howling wolves, where the cycles of the seasons slowed to the pace of a lumbering horse and cart. This fascinating journey follows in his footsteps.

Beginning in the foothills of the Gutai mountains we journey to Blacker’s spiritual home, the village of Breb, near where our adventure begins. During the next few days we will walk among the rolling hills of the Maramures and the beautiful Iza valley and trek through the spectacular highlands of the Rodna mountains National Park. These are landscapes filled with unique wooden churches and painted monasteries, dark forests filled with bears and wolves and remote Saxon villages that still retain a wonderful sense of feudal Europe.

For Blacker this was a world that offered an escape from the chaos of his modern existence. For us it is one that offers a chance to experience one of Europe’s last remote corners of medieval tradition.


  • Walk through beautiful mountain scenery and discover an ancient way of life in the Maramures region
  • See the famous painted monasteries and Byzantine frescoes of the Bucovina district
  • Stay with one of the few remaining German colonists in Viscri in a refurbished Saxon peasant house
  • Meet an egg painter in Sucevita village to learn about this ancient tradition, said to date back to the crucifixion
  • Explore the other-worldly underground salt mine of Salina Turda
  • Experience Romanian hospitality and homemade cuisine whilst staying at mountain guesthouses

Tour Includes:

  • Full services of a Tour Leader with local guides and drivers
  • 9 breakfasts, 10 lunches, 9 dinners (typically in local restaurants where viable)
  • All transport (a minibus and your own 2 feet!)
  • 9 nights' accommodation (2 in hotels, 6 in guesthouses, 2 nights in traditional refurbished peasant houses)
  • All entrance fees, sightseeing, excursions and activities as per the itinerary
  • A carbon-offsetting contribution to Carbon Clear (if booking international flights through our office)


Trip rating:

Adventure Rating
Adventure Rating - 5

Tours that fall into this category are likely to involve at least a few challenging days and are often in destinations where tourism is still in its infancy.

Comfort Rating
Comfort Rating - 5

You can typically expect a mixture of accommodation with some nights being spent in comfortable and characterful places, and some in more basic places, homestays or camping, especially where choices are limited.

Fitness Rating
Fitness Rating - 7

These tours will typically involve a couple of days of easy/moderate trekking (3-5 hrs/day) or perhaps a more active approach to a cultural itinerary. For riding trips see the Riding Information section

Culture Rating
Culture Rating - 8

With this rating, you can typically expect a tour with a strong focus on culture. Depending on the trip this could involve exploring ancient sites, medieval architecture, ethnographic museums and/or having tribal encounters.

Talk to us about Romania


Leave some room for souvenirs, the painted eggs are often a favourite.

Speak to one of our team on
+44 (0)20 8741 7390 or use the simple online form below

More Group Tours in Romania