For myself and many others I know, Voodoo has often been perceived as terrible black magic and associated with bad omens, partly due to popular culture. However, having experienced it firsthand on the Togo & Benin: Voodoo Explorer tour, I can say this portrayal is misleading. Originating among the Fon, Ewe, and Yoruba peoples of West Africa, more precisely in the areas of modern-day Togo and Benin, Voodoo is much more than cursed dolls; it is a religion and a vital part of daily life. People hold it in great respect, follow hierarchical structures, and use it to cope with everyday challenges, seek luck, or even send curses to those who wrong them. Voodoo is fundamentally based on animism and spiritism, with each element, from trees to animals and so on, believed to possess a spirit and worshipped as deities.  

When we met the fetish priest in Lome on the second day, we had a private meeting with him. Fetish priests are vital in voodoo, serving as mediators between individuals and the gods. They are the only ones authorised to invoke the gods and request blessings, doing so by interacting with shrines represented by statues, jars, or other objects loaded with various elements, including animal skulls and herbs. Thanks to our local guide, we learned how they craft many items filled with strong spiritual power, such as those associated with good luck, love, and family. Numerous voodoo dolls are also available, often used as protective spirits or to attract wealth, health, and fertility.  

Speaking of shrines, the Dankoli fetish in Benin is the most remarkable and most powerful in the country. It functions as an independent shrine, requiring no priest for communication with the gods. The site features two primary divinities — one male and one female — symbolised by a tent marked with sticks. To make a wish, individuals awaken the gods by pouring alcohol over them and then voicing their requests. If the wish is fulfilled, a sacrifice, such as a goat or similar, is offered as an expression of gratitude to the divinity (as I witnessed!).  

There is also a deep respect for deceased family members, remembered through ceremonies. A notable example is the Egun dance masks, where vividly coloured figures perform to the powerful beats of drums and lively rhythms, with each mask representing someone who played an important role in the village. As the rhythm continues, the masks become possessed and lose control, which is why guards are present. Local spectators gather to watch the performance and ensure they are not touched by the masks.  

A similar tradition is the Gelede masks celebration. Although less energetic and intense than the Egun ritual, it remains a respectful tribute to Yoruba female ancestors. The top carvings—such as birds, serpents, or everyday figures—are used to tell stories, address social issues, or share humorous lessons.  

In Ouidah (the capital of Voodoo and host of the yearly Ouidah Voodoo festival), a key element is the Sacred Forest of Kpassè, renowned for the legendary Iroko tree under which King Kpassè allegedly transformed in the 16th century, with many visitors touching the tree in hopes of fulfilling their wishes. The site also serves as both a place of worship and an open-air museum, featuring statues depicting various divinities.  

An important mention also goes to the Zangbeto masks: these are believed to safeguard against malevolent spirits and harmful people, with their spinning motions symbolising the cleansing of the village from negative influences. A unique aspect is their frequent display of different gods, which can appear in various forms, often including a small crocodile.  

A visit to a Voodoo ceremony is essential to complete a trip centred around this tradition. Usually held in secluded villages, these ceremonies occur regularly and serve as a way to invoke spirits through drumming and singing. An intriguing aspect is that some participants enter trance states, possessed by deities. During these moments, individuals may be unable to stand or may dance convulsively as they approach nearby shrines.  

This journey not only revealed an untouched and pristine area of Western Africa but also allowed me to meet local tribes firsthand and learn about their culture, beliefs, hierarchies, and daily life, as well as the complexities and layers of the Voodoo religion.