Whether Georgia is part of Europe depends on who you ask, and, perhaps more importantly, on which definition of Europe you use. What is certain is that Georgia sits at a fascinating crossroads of Europe and Asia while maintaining a character and identity entirely its own.

It is also becoming increasingly accessible from Europe, with direct flights connecting Georgia to cities including London, Paris, Athens, Warsaw, Amsterdam and Istanbul. As a result, more and more European travellers looking for an alternative to the continent’s busier destinations are discovering Georgia.

And it is easy to see why. Excellent food, a fascinating and complex medieval and modern history, dramatic mountain scenery, exceptional hiking and one of the world’s oldest wine-making traditions — although I’ll happily leave Georgia and Armenia to argue over who gets the title — make for a pretty compelling combination.

For travellers looking to combine culture and food with genuine time outdoors, Georgia ticks a lot of boxes. Visitor numbers have risen considerably in recent years, and beautiful restaurants, boutique hotels and guesthouses are appearing across the country. Yet despite this growing accessibility, there is still a corner of Georgia where reaching your destination remains very much part of the adventure.

That place is Tusheti.

A region of ancient villages, mystical forests, wildflower-filled meadows and snow-capped peaks, Tusheti sees only a fraction of Georgia’s visitors. Reaching it requires a four-hour, bone-shaking journey over one of the country’s most spectacular mountain roads. But for those willing to make the journey, the reward is a region that feels remarkably remote and wonderfully preserved.

Search for the Abano Pass online and you’ll quickly encounter phrases such as “death road” and “most dangerous road in Europe”. The photographs don’t exactly help: steep mountainsides, narrow gravel tracks and vehicles apparently clinging to the edge of enormous drops are enough to make even experienced travellers pause for thought.

In reality, the road is certainly challenging, but it is also a well-established route into Tusheti during the summer season. The approximately 73-kilometre journey is predominantly gravel and is tackled daily by experienced 4WD drivers when conditions allow. There are no plans to turn it into a conventional paved mountain road, the terrain and climate make that an enormous undertaking.

On our trips, as on my own journey to Tusheti, we use experienced Tushetian drivers who know the road intimately and make the journey regularly. They know every bend, bump and troublesome section, allowing you to concentrate on the spectacular scenery rather than the drop outside your window.

The going is slow and occasionally rough, but that is part of what makes the journey memorable. Reaching the 2,860-metre Abano Pass feels like an achievement in itself. From there, the road descends into Tusheti, and the landscape changes dramatically. Suddenly you are surrounded by high peaks, deep valleys, forests and tiny villages that seem almost impossibly remote.

And remote they are.

The road only opens for a short period each year, once the worst of the winter snow has cleared, and normally closes again sometime in October. Since it is effectively the only overland route in and out of Tusheti, the region is cut off from the outside world for much of the year.

Most Tushetians traditionally spend the winter in lower-lying parts of Georgia and return to their mountain villages during the summer. A small number of villagers, however, remain through the winter, when the region becomes an exceptionally isolated place.

Everything in Tusheti seems to make the most of its short summer season. Wildflowers burst into bloom, bees work relentlessly, farmers cut grass to prepare for the long winter, and guesthouse owners spend the season welcoming and feeding the travellers who have made the journey here.

Tusheti lies in northeastern Georgia, high in the Greater Caucasus and close to the borders with Dagestan and Chechnya. Its geography has always shaped the lives, traditions and architecture of its people.

The landscape is dotted with defensive towers and fortified villages. These structures were built to protect communities from raids and invading forces, with towers providing both lookout posts and places of refuge.

Tusheti’s geography also made it extraordinarily difficult to conquer. High mountains, narrow passes and isolated valleys offered natural defences, while local communities were accustomed to defending themselves and their settlements.

The region was not entirely untouched by the great powers that swept through the Caucasus. Mongol armies invaded Georgia in the 13th century, and Tusheti experienced raids and upheaval during this period. Yet the remoteness of the highland communities meant that outside powers had far less direct control here than they did in Georgia’s lowlands. Tusheti retained a remarkable degree of local autonomy and, with it, many of its distinctive traditions.

Religion is a good example of this cultural resilience. Tushetians adopted Christianity, but older beliefs and customs survived alongside it. Sacred shrines can still be found throughout the mountains, some associated with traditional rituals and animal offerings. Certain sacred spaces have strict rules about who may enter — some, for example, are traditionally off-limits to women.

The result is a culture that feels distinctly Tushetian: Christian, Caucasian, and deeply rooted in traditions that predate Christianity.

And perhaps the word “headstrong” is appropriate here. Life in a place this remote requires a fair amount of independence.

If you are going to make the arduous journey into Tusheti, it is worth giving yourself enough time to appreciate it. We recommend a minimum of three nights.

Tusheti combines particularly well with a few days in Tbilisi and time in Georgia’s wine country, creating a fantastic journey that moves from city to mountains to food, wine, culture and history. Alternatively, Tusheti can easily become the focus of an entire trip, with a week spent hiking between valleys and medieval villages.

Most trips here are active, although you certainly don’t need to be an ultra-runner to enjoy the region. Typically, you’ll drive by 4WD to a trailhead or village and then set off on foot, following paths through high mountain valleys, forests, rivers and meadows.

There are spectacular multi-day treks connecting villages, but for shorter visits we often recommend a more flexible approach. Some of the routes double as the main tracks used by 4WD vehicles, so skipping some sections by driving and choosing quieter trails can make for a more enjoyable experience.

With three nights in Tusheti, you could spend two full days exploring different valleys with a local guide and driver, visiting medieval villages and taking moderate hikes through the surrounding mountains.

Personally, though, I’m perfectly happy with a three-hour hike that takes in a village or three, followed by an epic lunch at a local guesthouse. After that, there is something to be said for doing absolutely nothing: sitting outside, looking across the mountains and letting your legs recover.

That, after all, is part of the magic of Tusheti.

It is difficult to reach, only accessible for a few months each year and still feels wonderfully remote despite Georgia’s rapidly growing popularity. If you are willing to make the journey, Tusheti offers something increasingly difficult to find in Europe: the feeling that you have genuinely gone somewhere.

At Wild Frontiers Adventure Travel, we organise trips to Tusheti during the summer months and can tailor the experience to suit you, whether you are an avid hiker or simply looking for an extraordinary mountain adventure.

All you need is an adventurous spirit, and a reasonably firm spine.