To the (valley of the) moon and back: Wadi Rum camping experience
‘Yallah, yallah,’ instructs our guide, Rajah, and we could feel his urgency. He didn't want us to miss what is often lauded as the highlight of the day's itinerary - the sunset over the red desert valley.
Travelling in open-air 4X4 WD jeeps zooming away from the day crowds into the vast wilderness towards the red dunes, framed by sheer sandstone cliffs was truly mesmerising.
The camp staff who had arranged this activity had the timing (and the weather) spot on as we arrived moments before sunset. This time of the day, with the sun dipping into the horizon, one could feel the whole landscape come alive. The Bedouin camp staff prepared fresh mint tea over an open fire and we sipped it atop a giant red sand dune whilst watching the sun descend was truly magical. With its barren desert landscape, stunning red sandstone cliffs and valleys, it’s no wonder Wadi Rum has become a sought-after location for filmmakers from Hollywood to Bollywood.
Once the evening set in, we headed back to Rum Planet Camp, our home for the next two nights. Set close to the striking rock formations and rolling red dunes, with neatly lined black and white Bedouin tents, this tranquil location felt like a little oasis.
Earlier that afternoon, the camp check-in process included an informative welcome briefing, mostly emphasising the eco-friendly focus that the camp prides itself on. The three Bedouin friends who run this camp strongly believe in the role that they and the camp can play in keeping the Wadi area clean, reinforcing that we each, even as visitors, have a part to play in this shared goal. As part of their “Say no to plastic in Wadi “ campaign, all guests were handed a tin water bottle to use during our stay, with a dedicated refill station for regular top-ups. It was encouraging to learn that the camp itself is a plastic-free zone, as well as solely utilising solar energy for electricity and water heating, whilst harvesting rainwater mainly for garden usage.
After some time to settle in and relax, we had the opportunity to indulge in that famous traditional Bedouin hospitality. This included an endless supply of local mint tea, whilst sinking into cushions around a campfire and gazing into the evening sky.
We were quickly summoned to the open ground area to check out our dinner, where we witnessed the cooking of “ Zerb”, the famous Bedouin barbeque which had been cooking for the past few hours. This is how Bedouins in the Arabian Peninsula have cooked their food for centuries - in underground earth ovens.
After a delicious dinner, Ahmad from the camp gathered all the guests for a session of stargazing. Sitting under the clear night sky with an unobstructed view and minimal light pollution, Ahmad explained how the stars were key to Bedouin nighttime navigation. He started by showing us the position of Polaris, which is visible all night and all year round and so is used as their constant guide to the North. Not only does this help the Bedouins navigate, but it also helps them find Mecca for their daily prayers. Pointing to the night sky, our host located various constellations that were visible, including Gemini and Orion.
Looking up at the beautiful, serene and endless night sky in silence on a tranquil starry night in Wadi is one of those memories to last a lifetime. A perfect end to the Arabian night.
