Spending Time in Madurai

Posted by Dhala Campbell 1st December 2014
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It's our penultimate day in Tamil Nadu before we catch the night train to Mysore tomorrow evening and the region has certainly lived up to all our expectations.

Fantastic temples abound with their magnificent gopurams; the temple gates decorated with various gods. Lord Shiva is very much revered in various forms especially as the Cosmic Dancer, kicking up one leg high whilst stamping down on the Dwarf of Ignorance. It turns out Lord Shiva and Kali had a dance-off – whilst strutting his stuff Lord Shiva's earring fell off; with his foot he picked it up and in a can-can style move brought his leg up to his ear... and won the contest!

The incredible mansions are another sight not to be missed in the villages of Chettinad, which are filled with decaying homes and narrow roads. We slowly wound our way through the narrow lanes exploring the region and its local markets, including a rather good antique market.

We have eaten well on this trip. From beach shacks in Mahabalipuram, where we tucked into freshly caught platters of prawns, calamari and grilled fish, to the delights of Chettinadu cuisine, to a simple dosa last night for supper on a rooftop in Madurai looking towards the famous Sri Meenakshi temple, to the sweet tomato handed to us in the weekly market for us to try, to purchasing yummy cashews freshly shelled by the side of the road. Not to mention the daily cup of filter coffee boiled with milk and sugar at roadside stands!

We were truly blessed yesterday when we arrived in Madurai. Earlier in the day we had stopped by another small temple on a hill where we saw the resident elephant being given a bath. When we reached our hotel in Madurai they proudly announced we had all been upgraded. The rooms were the size of my flat and we each had our own plunge pool!

After a spot of lunch we headed to the palace, followed by a cycle rickshaw ride through the markets towards the temple, where we were again in luck – in the evening a unique procession was to be held at 7pm. Most tourists didn't know about it, so whilst they were having dinner and going to join the scrum of seeing Lord Shiva go to bed later that evening, we stayed at the temple and waited for the procession of the golden chariot being pulled around the temple courtyards by pilgrims. A bull led the procession followed by the resident temple elephant, both highly decorated. The golden chariot was festooned with garlands and fairy lights.

Whilst waiting for the procession to start the group received a blessing from the elephant and were given a flower each from one of the musicians before it got underway. They slowly proceeded around the temple's inner walls, stopping at each gate where a puja (prayer ritual) was held before slowly moving on. It was a sight to be seen and rather moving to watch the devotees walking alongside or standing with hands together in the Namaste position with such devotion.

This morning two of my group announced that aches and pains in their legs and sides had gone and it was down to the elephant's blessing. They said the elephant should be sainted!

I now have the tough job of getting the group to check out. Needless to say I have hardly seen them this morning – they have all firmly bolted their doors and are enjoying the delights of their plunge pools!

Tour leader Dhala is currently leading our South Indian Odyssey group tour.

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