Coffee, Comuna 13 & Cartagena Sunsets

Posted by Lou Furness 6th December 2023
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Coffee, Comuna 13 & Cartagena Sunsets

Whilst it is no secret that I love a bit of alliteration, these three c’s genuinely are my absolute highlights of our Viva Colombia group tour…

Somewhat of a caffeine addict, I was beyond excited to visit the third-largest coffee producer on the planet. If that were not enough, we even got to stay two whole nights at a working coffee farm! Having made our way up the central range of the Colombian Andes, it was dark by the time we were meandering along the dirt track to Hacienda Venecia. Emerging from the dense vegetation was our brightly lit, quaint Coffee Lodge with its deep red verandas. I felt like I was in a telenovela stepping out of our… 17-seater minibus, but that aside I was not too far off. A Netflix remake of Café con Aroma de Mujer was filmed here, and it doesn’t take more than a minute in this idyll to understand why.

Cue sunrise! As much as I love coffee, it certainly isn’t my evening drink of choice if I want to get some shuteye and we had a jam-packed day ahead of us on the premises. My morning coffee was well worth the wait though, oh so smooth and without the bitter aftertaste. It is all in the roasting apparently. Our guide, Andres, took us for a wander around the coffee plantation and explained the process from planting to pouring it into your cup. We visited the workshop and, of course, tasted more of the goods. If I have one piece of advice for you it is to pack lightly as you cannot leave the property without at least a couple of bags of these beans; She says, sipping her Colombian coffee back home.

Coincidentally, my second favourite coffee experience was in Comuna 13. Our local guide and legend, John, took us for a cuppa at the start of our walking tour around what used to be one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in the world. I could have spent all day in the coffee shop, Friends-style. Café Aroma del Barrio is so quirky with seats recycled from old buses and murals covering every nook and cranny, lovingly created by Chota 13. The graffiti artist is becoming internationally recognised and his masterpieces span as far as Shoreditch.

With six sections climbing some 384 metres in total, you don’t need to take the stairs to get a sense of why they played such an integral role in connecting the community with the wider city. The viewpoints afford a spectacular panorama over the sprawl of colourful dwellings set amongst the lush, green mountains. It was quite something, as was meeting none other than Don Ivan along the way – one of Comuna 13’s founders and right by the mural that celebrates his contribution to social change, though his beaming smile remained very much the same.

Whilst none of us wanted to leave, the tour must go on with the Caribbean coast a-calling. Also, let’s face it, no trip to Colombia would be complete without a visit to Cartagena. This port city’s popularity dates back centuries, hotly contested in the race to take control of the New World due to its strategic positioning. Mooching around the cobbled streets in the company of our local guide, Carlos, we were privy to some of the most extensive and best-preserved fortresses in all of South America to this day.

The history of Cartagena is not only etched into the pastel hues of the colonial houses but also in the beautifully bold dresses of the palenqueras that line the city’s streets selling fruit. The ancestors of these lovely ladies played an integral role in freeing slaves, braiding their hair with maps that would lead them to nearby walled communities. One such village is San Basilio de Palenque, which is now another of the many reasons that our infectiously enthusiastic Tour Leader, Alex, gave us to return to his beloved home country.

A gift that keeps on giving, what better backdrop to reflect on our journey than a Cartagena sunset? As the skyline turned from the brightest blue to burnt orange, you could see the silhouettes of two local fishermen going about their business. Picture postcard, it was an incredibly special end to the most amazing trip and the mojito in hand only elevated the teary-eyed nostalgia. What can I say, sunsets are my thing and this one was up there with the very best. But don’t just take my word for it…

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