Negotiating international borders can be a frustrating, even traumatic experience, but rarely as interesting as this one on our Central American Odyssey journey. Our sea crossing over the Gulf of Fonseco from Nicaragua into El Salvador was the favoured option (avoiding an 8-hour road trek via Honduras) but was weather dependent. The sun shone, so we were able to embark on this maritime route, which provided novel experiences at both border controls.

The characteristic smooth tarmac of Nicaraguan roads frayed to a dusty track as our group of twelve approached the crumbling concrete jetty that was to be our remote departure point. The usual impassive border official, partly concealed by glass and a computer screen, was replaced by a smiling lady at a table beneath the shade of a tree. Our luggage had to be presented in neat lines on the concrete, segregated according to female and male ownership, in preparation for a bag-by-bag inspection. The customs officer’s rummaging seemed to pay the most attention to books and any drawing equipment discovered - we deduced that writers and artists were still perceived as revolutionaries!

Exit stamps secured, our luggage was carried by porters (3 or 4 bags at a time, at a run) across the black sand beach and loaded into a small, open motor launch ready for our embarkation on a three-hour sea journey. Sightings of turtles or dolphins eluded us, but we did observe commercial shipping heading to San Lorenzo, the only Pacific port serving Honduras. By way of an intermission, we waded ashore onto the laid-back Isle de Zacatillo, unsure of its precise sovereignty, to enjoy grilled fish for lunch followed by a swim and a moment or two in a hammock.

On the next leg of this apparent ‘no man’s land’ approach to El Salvador, we encountered fishermen hauling nets into small boats, surrounded by scoops of pelicans lungeing for any escaped sardines. Once we landed at La Union, it was a short walk to the migration office, where we expected the usual form-filling, photographic identity checks and passport inspections. The border officer on duty was obviously feeling very relaxed. He encouraged us all outside for a smiling group photo, which he snapped on his phone, whilst balancing on a low garden wall. He even took another picture for us, using our guide’s phone. 

“Welcome to El Salvador!” he exclaimed to our applause. 

Bring on our next Odyssey border-line crossing into Guatemala.