This trip had been on our list since we watched one of Wild Frontiers' webinars coming out of the pandemic. We were tempted by descriptions of:

• Hiking up the sandstone peaks of Meteora to see the monasteries
• Wine tasting in Metsovo
• The world heritage sites in Thessaloniki
• The family-run hotels and guesthouses
• Boat trips on lakes to visit abandoned, hidden monasteries and to see the pelicans
• The food!

The first couple of days saw us exploring the living museum that is the city of Thessaloniki, with more than 2500 years of history. You cannot walk more than a few paces before you encounter a relic or monument, many of which are included on the UNESCO World Heritage sites, dating from the 4th century to the late Byzantine period of the 13th and 14th centuries.   

My mind was officially blown when we visited Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great, to see the archaeological site and Vergina with the impressive museum that holds the amazing discovery by a Greek archaeologist of the father of Alexander the Great, Phillip II. The riches found in that tomb have to be seen to be believed – the gold laurel crowns are stunning. This museum also holds the tomb of Alexander’s murdered son, which was also discovered unopened, full of gold and jewels.  

Towards the end of the tour, we arrived in the town of Kavala, which is close to the remains of Phillipi, founded in 356 BC by Phillip II, another UNESCO site. The walls, gates, theatre and temple can be seen, and an expert guide took us through what daily life would have been like for the people who lived and walked there so long ago. 

Arriving in Meteora to hike up to the Byzantine monasteries (you’ve guessed it, another UNESCO site), we got to our hotel before sunset with views of the sandstone peaks from our windows. We hiked up to two of the monasteries the following day, on well-marked, but steep in places, trails following in the footsteps of the monks who had first arrived here more than 15 centuries ago. Looking across to other monasteries, it felt as if we, and they, were floating in the clouds. 

Our second day of hiking saw us arriving in Metsovo, having walked across the Ursa Trail (bear country!) in the Pindos mountains. There should have been spectacular views at the top, but we had a misty day, so these were mostly hidden from us. This walk was so peaceful as we didn’t see another human until we reached the village. We were quite high up, so you could feel the altitude in your lungs, but a slow, steady pace saw us all reach Metsovo ready for the wine tasting at the famous Katogi wine distillery that was waiting for us. The wine tasting of whites, rosé and reds (and the local spirit Tibero) was paired with cheeses and pies, a combination that led to the need for an afternoon siesta before dinner. 

Aah, yes, the food. We could easily all have come home many kilos heavier, as the Greeks love to feed you and can look quite puzzled if you decline anything or do not finish what is on your plate. We were presented with feasts, usually three times a day, from breakfast, lunch and dinner. I was typically full after the appetisers. It wasn’t until about a third of the way through the week when our meals started to be served ‘family style’ from shared dishes in the middle of the table that I felt able to eat what I wanted in the amounts that I wanted without guilt of saying no, thank you!  

But as vegetarians, we were spoiled with a wonderful Mediterranean diet of fresh vegetables, stuffed peppers and giant tomatoes with rice, herbs, spices, bean dishes, fried zucchini, zucchini spring rolls and of course, an array of different Mezze dishes. We’ve been keeping the Greek vibe going since being home by recreating some of these dishes. 

We felt so welcomed by everyone we met who ran the restaurants or hotels/guesthouses.  We felt their sense of pride in their country, their history, their businesses and their excitement about sharing their knowledge about this. We were often the only group staying in the accommodations or visiting the sites, as Wild Frontiers does well to stay off the beaten track wherever possible. 

We were so blessed with the guides we had on this trip. From Tasos, our main guide whose knowledge and expertise about his country and the history was so in depth; Alex, who on this trip was supporting Tasos with his knowledge, gentleness and sense of humour; to Demetrius, our historical guide in Thessaloniki and Pella whose storytelling expertise and humour brought history to life; to Vasileios, our driver for the trip, who in his spare time reads about Aristotle and Socrates became our unofficial fourth guide! They worked hard to make our trip very special, and it was a privilege to spend time with them. 

And finally, of course, our fellow group of travellers from different corners of the world. We came together over a shared curiosity about the history of northern Greece, the chance to walk in unspoilt country, laugh and learn together and share stories of world travel. One of my favourite things about travelling with Wild Frontiers is meeting the people we travel with. We come in and out of each other’s lives for a short time, but I always come away with knowing more than I did before I met them and feeling better for it. The only downside is that we also come away with a longer list of places to go.

If this trip is not yet on your own list, I would highly recommend you add it. Opa!