Highlights from the Balkans
“Travelling through Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo and Montenegro on our Balkans Insider small group tour revealed a corner of Europe that is both captivating and complex, full of spectacular landscapes and fascinating old towns.” Read more about Laura, Operations Manager, highlights of her trip below.
The Balkans is a region where history is never far from the surface. In Albania, the legacy of an isolated communist regime lingers beneath the streets of a rapidly changing capital. In North Macedonia, the waters of Lake Ohrid reflect centuries of religious and cultural history. In Kosovo, Ottoman streets and medieval Orthodox monasteries speak to the many communities that have shaped the region, while in Montenegro, Adriatic towns and mountain-top monuments offer a striking blend of beauty and tradition.
Tirana, Albania
We started our tour in Tirana, the capital of Albania. Today, the city is lively, colourful and bustling with development, with modern high-rise buildings popping up on every corner, particularly around Skanderbeg Square. Yet beneath this contemporary energy lies a much darker past, which was our main topic during our time here. Albania was ruled by the regime of Enver Hoxha from 1944 until his death in 1985, with communist rule until 1991. During this period, the country became increasingly isolated from much of the world whilst political repression and strict state control shaped everyday life.
One of the most memorable ways to explore this history is at Bunk’ Art 1, an original bunker built during the communist period to shelter the country’s political and military leadership in the event of an attack. Today, the underground corridors house interesting displays exploring the regime and life during this period. Walking through the bunker, the sheer scale of the structure (106 rooms in total) brings home the atmosphere of fear and insecurity that characterised the era. It was certainly a thought-provoking start to the tour and a reminder of how much Albania has changed in the last few decades.
Ohrid, North Macedonia
Our next stop was the picturesque town of Ohrid, sat beside Lake Ohrid on the border between North Macedonia and Albania. Estimated to be around three million years old, the lake is one of Europe’s oldest and deepest, reaching approximately 300 metres. It is also one of the few places in the world to hold dual status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for both its nature and culture.
We began with a guided walking tour of the cobbled streets of the old town, discovering traditional architecture, historic churches and some of the local crafts for which Ohrid is famous. This included admiring the ‘Ohrid Pearl’, a handmade jewel crafted from fish scales, and learning about the National Workshop for Handmade Paper, which houses a surviving Gutenberg printing press. However, one of the real highlights for me was undeniably the impressive site of the Church of Saint John at Kaneo. It is easy to see why this is such a photographed view. Perched on the edge of a rocky cliff with the vast water of Ohrid behind it, watching the sunset here was maybe one of my favourite moments of the trip.
Prizren, Kosovo
Prizren is often referred to as the cultural capital of Kosovo, Europe’s youngest nation, having declared independence in 2008. Nestled in the foothills of the Sharr Mountains, this bustling town was a fascinating stop on our journey.
The historic centre is full of character with narrow streets, traditional buildings and a mixture of architectural influences. One of the city’s most recognisable views is from the bridge over the Lumbardhi River, where you can photograph the Sinan Pasha Mosque, an Orthodox church and Prizren Fortress in one shot. It was a great halfway stop on the tour to slow down the pace and soak up local life in the town.
Visoki Dečani Monastery
En route from Prizren to Kolašin, Montenegro, we made a stop at the Visoki Dečani Monastery, located in the foothills of the Accursed Mountains bordering Albania. Founded in the early 14th century by Serbian King Stefan Decanski, this marble building is renowned for its impressive collection of over 1,000 painted frescoes.
Still in incredibly good condition, the frescoes feature dozens of religious figures and depict bible stories, and not an inch of wall is left blank. Everywhere you look there is a new story, and it was hard to imagine how they were painted all those years ago. Still a functioning monastery, the resident monks are mainly self-sufficient, brewing beer and making cheese locally to sell in the gift shop.
Train Journey from Kolašin to Podgorica, Montenegro
One of my top highlights of the tour was the 90-minute train journey we took from the mountain town of Kolašin to Podgorica, Montenegro’s capital city. Boarding this classic, Soviet-style train, the railway passes through some incredible valleys and rugged terrain, with tunnels, viaducts and deep river canyons providing a constantly changing view.
As we travelled towards Podgorica, the landscape seemed to become more impressive around every bend, and I found myself constantly amazed by what I was looking at. It was a wonderful reminder that some of the best travel experiences happen on the journey between destinations, and it really brought Montenegro’s natural scenery to life.
Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš, Montenegro
Whilst one of the highlights of the tour was undoubtedly staying on the edge of the Bay of Kotor, what took me by surprise was visiting the Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović-Njegoš. Njegoš was a 19th-century Serbian Prince-Bishop, poet and philosopher whose works are considered some of the most important in Montenegrin and Serbian literature. One of his most famous poems is The Mountain Wreath, which talks about the struggle for freedom against the Ottomans.
It is said that Njegoš wanted to be buried where he could watch over all of Montenegro, so this location sitting on a peak in Mt. Lovćen seems fitting. The mausoleum itself is impressive with detailed marble statues, yet it is the setting that makes the experience particularly memorable. Standing high above the mountains, it really does feel as though you can see much of Montenegro in every direction.
